ONLINE DISCUSSIONS
Vortex has partnered with the Climbing Business Journal to create and publish educational content for routesetters
Take a look….
It wasn’t all that long ago when routesetters were just climbers who got a free membership and burrito for bolting some plastic holds to the wall at their local gym once or twice a month. How much has changed in the last couple decades or so? What does it mean to be a Professional Routesetter, and how do you get there? How should today’s routesetters think about tomorrow’s career choices?
We’re talking with Chris Danielson to hear how things were “back in my day…” compared to the career progression that current or future generations of routesetters have come to expect.
With its introduction to the Olympics in 2020, the sport of climbing has entered the public consciousness like never before. Every day, new climbers are walking into gyms, often with expectations that have been shaped by what they’ve seen on television. More and more routesetters are registering for USAC clinics with the dream of one day setting Nationals. Youth climbing teams are growing. Holds seen on World Cup boulders are making appearances on commercial V2s.
Join us as we talk with Cody Grodzki about what it means to be a competition routesetter in the modern age. We’ll chat about how routesetting departments in commercial gyms can introduce climbers to World-Cup-style setting, and how aspiring competition setters can hone their skills at their home gyms…and beyond!
If you go to 10 different gyms, you might get 10 different answers. Between variations in wall heights, hold sizes and route density, the workload associated with setting a single boulder can be hard to pin down, and then there’s forerunning and quality expectations to consider. Is there a right answer?
We’re talking numbers with Ward Byrum. Defining your gym’s routesetting workload is critical for developing your program, affecting everything from rotation and density to how many hands you need on the crew.
Does anyone really know what grades are? If you think the answer to that question is yes, you may want to reconsider. Many routesetting experts would argue the answer is no, and will always be no.
But…there are productive ways to talk about grades, both within your routesetting teams and with your community at large. Join us as we chat with Flannery Shay-Nemirow and Tonde Katiyo about how best to approach this juggernaut of a topic in a way that sets us up for success rather than strife.
A fun side hustle, or a career? Lots of climbers want to become routesetters, but once they get a peek behind that curtain, the work might not seem as glamorous as they originally thought. Is routesetting a sustainable career? Why are so many experienced routesetters leaving the industry? What can we do to keep the profession going (and growing)?
We’re talking with Kenny Benson and Morgan Young about what it means to be a professional routesetter, and how we can keep moving forward.
Every routesetter has heard it: “Wow, you must get super strong climbing all the time for your job!” The reality, however, is that many routesetters working full-time struggle to push their own personal climbing limits, and some may even see a decrease in their capacity. Overuse injuries and cumulative fatigue present significant challenges to anyone pursuing a career as a routesetter. Over time, these consequences can leave us feeling like we’ve sold our passion and can lead to burnout and attrition.
Join us as we talk with Jess West and Rocco Bocchicchio about common hurdles preventing career routesetters from pursuing their own climbing goals, as well as ways for both individual routesetters and the industry at large to move past those hurdles.
How does routesetting for events differ from everyday commercial setting? How do events affect gym rotation and logistics? Every gym and event is different and will require something unique. No matter what your event is, we have some take-home information to help. Join us to discuss how to approach event routesetting from an organizational standpoint.
With the climbing industry continuing to expand, it’s increasingly important to design a routesetting program that meets your gym’s unique needs and keeps you competitive. We will discuss ways to attract and retain talent while being mindful of budgets, as well as structuring a program in a way that reflects the priorities of your community and brand.
Join Vortex as we talk Routesetting with Holly Chen on the Impact Driver Podcast
Growing as a USAC Routesetter
Most routesetters working in the U.S. today have interacted with USA Climbing (USAC) at some level, whether it’s setting Qualifying Events for their home gym or pursuing higher level certifications through clinics, internships, and national level apprenticeships.
Join us to talk with John Muse, a man who knows the world of competition setting inside and out! We’ll chat about what it takes to be successful within USAC, and how we can grow ourselves to meet the growing needs of competitive climbing in the U.S.
We all know how important mentorship is to developing as a routesetter. Many of us began our careers in some version of an apprenticeship role, and our early mentors shaped our approach to the craft.
Mentorship shouldn’t stop the moment we grow past the entry-level routesetting position, though. Join us to talk with Louie Anderson, who has mentored innumerable routesetters in all stages of their careers. We’ll talk about what it means to inspire future generations of routesetters, and how best to keep growing the industry we love.
Every routesetter has likely heard it: “Wow, you must get super strong climbing all the time for your job!” The reality, however, is that many routesetters working full time struggle to push their own personal climbing limits, and some may even see a decrease in their capacity. Overuse injuries and cumulative fatigue present significant challenges to anyone pursuing a career as a routesetter; the consequence can leave us feeling like we’ve sold our passion, leading to burnout and attrition.
Join us as we talk with Tyler Nelson about the common hurdles preventing career routesetters from pursuing their own climbing goals, as well as ways for both individual routesetters and the industry to move past them.
The next time you head to the gym for a session, take a moment to look at the community climbing around you. Now take a look at the gym’s routesetting team. What do you notice?
We’re talking with Stefanie Myr about the importance of a well-balanced team, and how those in routesetting leadership positions can be proactive in building one.